Kent s



F. E. BERTRAND.

SEWING MACHINE.

. APPLICATION man sEPLH. 1914. RENEWED APR. 12. 1920. 1,360,262.

Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

5 SHEETSSHEET I- F. E. BERTRAND.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 11. 1914. RENEWED APR. 12.1920.

1 60,262. Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 2- gma mblesses i en F ZwE AE EW m Z M 4m "Xv/Wm I"ZZZQQX F. E. BEHTRAND.

- v SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILEDYSEPT. I1, 1914. RENEWED APR. 12.1920.

.1 ,360,262, Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3- five/mien M 4 Z Z Wi F. E. BERTRAND.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION man SEPT. I1,1914. RENEWED APR. 12.1920.

1 ,360,262, Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

F. E. BERTRAND.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 11. 1914. RENEWED APR. 12, :920.

1,360,262. Patented Nov. 30, 1920..

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5- UNITED STATES PATENT orrics.

FREDERIC E. BERTRAND, OF LYNN. MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOB. BY MESNE ASSIGN-MENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATEBSON, JERSEY,

A CGRPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Application filed September 11, 1914, Serial No. 861,215. Renewed April12, 1920.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I,'FREDERIO E. BER- TRAND, acitizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essexand State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the followingto be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such aswill enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make anduse the same.

This invention relates to shoe sewing machines and more particularly tomachines for sewing the inseams of shoes.

In the usual commercial process of manufacture of welted and turn shoesthe insole and upper are assembled on the last and the upper is lastedby drawing the lower margin of the same over the marginal portion of theinsole and is secured in place by temporary fastenings. After the inseamis sewed. there is a considerable portion of the upper in excess of hatwhich is essential to hold the seam left projecting beyond the inseamand this surplus portion of the upper is trimmed off in the inseamtrimming operation. It is necessary in this method of making shoes incutting the upper to pro vide this excess or surplus at the lower marginof the upper in order to enable the lasting pinchers to secure a gripupon the man gin of the upper. Upper leather is expen 'sive and theexcess portion of the upper.

which is afterward trimmed off and wasted adds considerably to theexpense of the shoe. It is obviously desirable in order to save expensethat the upper before it is attached to the insole be cut to the exactsize which it is to have in the finished shoe. In the commercial processof making welted. and turn shoes the parts of the shoe remain on thelast from the time when the upper and insole are assembled upon the lastuntil the shoe is finished, which usually takes several days. It isnecessary for the manufacturer to keep on hand large number of lasts ofvarious sizes, inasmuch as the lasts must be made of carefully selectedmaterial the cost of the lasts is a large item in shoe manufacture. Itis evident that the number of lasts which must be kept in stock maybereduced by reducing the time during which each shoe remains on the last.

The primary ObjBCl) of the present1nven- Specification of LettersPatent.

Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

Serial No. 373,390.

which will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

The features of the invention will be readily understood from aninspection of the accompanying drawings and the following detaileddescription of the same.

The invention has been illustrated as embodied in a machine whichcomprises a curved hook needle and devices cooperating therewith to forma lock-stitch seam which is designed particularly for sewing the inseamsof welted shoes. It is to be understood, however, that the invention maybe applied to machines for sewing turned shoes and that except asdefined in the claims, the invention is not limited to any particularmachine or type of machine.

In the drawings illustrating a machine embodying the various features ofthe invention in their preferred forms; Figure 1 is a view in frontelevation of the machine; Fig. 2 is a view in side elevation of themachine looking from the right Fig. 3 is a View in side elevation of aportion of the machine illustrating the parts in the positions whichthey occupy when the shoe is to be inserted in the machine or removedfrom the ma chine, and showing the shoe in section; Fig. 4 is a viewsimilar to Fig. 8 showing the parts in the positions which they assumeat a certain point in each cycle of operations; Fig. 5 is a view infront elevation illustrating certain of the parts at the. front of themachine; Fig. 6 is a detail view partly in side elevation and partly invertical section, illustrating particularly certain of the devices forpositioning and guiding the parts of the shoe; Fig. 7 is a detail viewpartly in front elevation and partly in section illustratingparticularly certain of the devices for positioning and guiding theparts of the shoe; Fig. 8 is a detail view in side elevationillustrating a support upon whlch certain of the devices for guiding andposi-.

tioning the parts of the shoe are mounted; Fig. 9 is a detail view infront elevation of the member shown in Fig. 8; Fig. 10 is a detail Viewof the member which carries the upper edge guide, looking in thedirection 0f the arrow a, Fig. 6; Fig. 11 is a detail view of the membershown in Fig. 10, looking in the direction of the arrow 6, Fig. 6; Fig.12 is a detail view in plan illustrating the presser foot and welt guideand showing the manner in which the welt is presented to the upper andinsole; Fig. 13 is a detail view in vertical section illustrating thepresser foot, welt guide, aWl and needle, and the parts of the shoe, andshowing the relative positions in which the parts of the shoe arelocated at the sewing point; Fig. 14 is a diagrammatic view illustratingthe parts of a shoe and certain of the devices for positioning andguiding said parts in the positions which they assume at one pointduring each cycle of operations; Fig. 15 is a view similar to Fig. 14but illustrating the devices for positioning and guiding the parts of ashoe in the positions which they assume at another point in a cycle ofoperations.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is a curved hook needlelock-stitch machine of the same general type as the machine for sewingoutsoles illustrated in the patent to French and Meyer, No. d73,8?0,dated April 26, 1892. lVith the exception of the pull-off, the stitchforming devices and feed slide of the machine illustrated, and themechanism for actuating the same have substantially the sameconstruction, arrangement and mode of operation as the correspondingparts of the machine illustrated in the above patent. In the drawings, 2indicates the curved hook needle. -.l: the needle guide, 6 the awl, 8the looper, 10 the thread finger, 12 the shuttle, 14 the thread lifter,16 the take-up,

18 the auxiliary takeaip, 20 the tension and 22 the feed slide.

The pull-off comprises a thread roll mounted upon the end of an arm 22fixed 'to a rock shaft 24 mounted in bearings in the frame of themachine. An arm 26 is fixed to the opposite end of the rock shaft and isconnected by a link 28 with the downwardly extending arm of a bell crank30 pivoted upon a stud 32, the horizontally extending arm of whichcarries a cam roll 34 engaging'a cam groove in a cam disk fixed to themain shaft of the machine. By the oscillation of the bell-crank 30 aconstant throw is imparted to the pull-off through the mechanismdescribed. An adjustable connection is provided between the downwardlyextending arm of the bell crank 30 and the rear end of the link 28, asshown in Fig. 2 so that the rear end of the link may be adjusted towardand from the axis of the bell crank to vary the throw of the pull-off.The reason for employing a pull-off having a constant throw instead of apull-off in which the throw varies with changes in the thickness of thework as in the machine illustrated and described in the above patentwill be hereinafter explained.

In preparing the parts of a shoe for presentation to the machineillustrated, the upper of the shoe is cut to the exact size which it isto have in the finished shoe, neglecting the stretching or lasting ofthe upper which is performed after the inseam is sewed. Be-

fore the upper and insole are assembled, the

upper is molded at the toe so as to give it substantially the form of alasted upper. In this molding operation the portion of the upper, abovethe line of the inseam which is to form the toe of the shoe, is moldedinto the proper shape and the marginal portion of the toe of the upperis molded inwardly so that it will lie properly over the marginalportion of the sole and is then turned outwardly so as to form a creasein which the inner margin of the welt is laid as the inseam is sewed,the extreme marginal portion of the upper being formed in folds orplaits in this operation just as in the lasting operation of theordinary process of manufacture of welted shoes. The molding of the toeof the upper into shape is preferably performed after the toe box isinserted between the upperjand the lining, and, in order to cause theupper to hold its shape, particularly along the margin where the foldsare formed therein, size or cement is applied between the upper and thelining before the molding operation and the molding operation isperformed by heated forms. The marginal portion of the upper at the heelis also preferably molded. inwardly at an angle to the upper portionthereof, so

that it will lie properly over the heel of the insole. The insoleemployed is preferably provided with a slit near its margin, formingwhat is ordinarily termed a channel or channel lip, and with a shoulderformed by cutting away the marginal portion of the insole along theouter face thereof leaving a comparatively flexible portion of theinsole at the upper margin which is usually termedthe feather. It isnot, however, es-

sential that the insole have this particular with the awl during thefeeding of the shoe. The inner face of the outer margin of the insole issupported bya sole support or guide 40 and the outer face of the featheris engaged and supported by a shoulder or crease guide 42, the loweredge of'which is arranged to engage the shoulder at the outer portion ofthe between substance of the insole. The marginal portion of the insoleis thus supported particularly three points by the channel guide, soleguide. at l shoulder or crease guide. In the construction illustratedthe sole guide and the crease guide are both formed upon member 44 whichembraces the feather of the insole and is pivoted co-axially \Viththeawl upon the feed slide, and is mounted on the feed slide so that itmoves therewith during the movements of the feed slide. The member 44 issecured by means of a screw 46 to a forwardly projecting portion of apivoted support 48 which support is loosely mounted upon a boss 50projecting laterally from the left hand side of the post 38. The support48 is held in place by the awl segment 52 which is mounted upon a pivotstud 54. The member 44 is yieldingly depressed so as to engage thecreaseguide and the sole support carried thereby lightly with the workby means of a light compression spring 56 mounted in an are shapedrecess 58 in the support 48 and engaging at its rear end the rear faceof the recess 58, and at its forward end a pin 60 fixed in the post 88.The movement of the support 48 in a direction to depress the member 44is limited by the engagement of a stop 62 formed on the sup port 48 withthe pin 60.

During each cycle of operations, starting at a point 'ust after the feedslide has been brought back to its initial retracted position after thework has been fed, the member 44 is depressed lightly by the spring 56to engage the crease guide with the shoulder of the insole and to pressthe sole guide against the sole, is then subjected to a heavy springpressure through the agency of the presser foot in a manner to behereinafter described, so as to tightly clamp or grip the betweensubstance of the sole between the channel guide and the crease guide,and to press the sole guide firmly against the inner face of the sole,and is then looked in position until after the feed slide has advancedto feed the work. Before the feed slide retracts the member 44 is liftedslightly so as to relieve the sole from the clamping pressure betweenthe channel guide and the crease guide and to relieve the pressure ofthe sole guide against the inner face of the sole so that the guideswill not have any appreciable drag or friction against the sole when thefeed slide retracts.

In placing the upper of the insole 1n the machine in position to besewed, the upper is positioned over the outer end of the member 44 sothat said member extends within the shoe as shown particularly in Figs.4, and 15. The machine is provided with a presser foot indicated at 64which engages the outer face of the marginal portion of the upper abovethe member 44. In the present embodiment of the invention the presserfoot carries a welt guide for guiding the welt to the sewing point, aportion of the shield of the welt guide forming the upper engagingportion of the presser foot. As shown particularly in Fig. 5, theforward upper corner 65 of the member 44 is rounded or beveled off andthe upper engaging portion of the presser foot extends at an angle tothe horizontal, so that when the presser foot is depressed, the oppositefaces of the mar in of the upper are clamped between the forward uppercorner of the member 44 and the opposed portion of the presser foot. Aswill be noted from an inspection, particularly of Figs. 8, 4 and 5, thework engaging face of the presser foot is shaped to engage in the creasemolded in the marginal portion of the upper at the toe and form a guidefor the upper. The presser foot is mounted upon an arm 66 which ispivoted co-axially with the awl so that the presser foot may be liftedand depressed during each cycle of operations. In the illustratedconstruction the arm 66 is pivoted upon the awl stud 54 and is held. inplace on said stud by the nuts 68 threaded on the end of the stud.

During each cycle of operations of the machine starting at a point justafter the feed slide has retracted to starting position the presser footis depressed with a heavy spring pressure so as to grip the upperbetween the opposed faces of the presser foot and the member 44, and islocked in position until after the feed slide has advanced to feed thework. The depressing of the presser foot serves not only to clamp theupper in position, but causes the member 44 to be depressed so as togrip the insole firmly be tween the channel guide, the crease guide andthe sole guide. It is to be noted that during the feeding movement ofthe parts of the shoe the upper and insole are thus securely clamped intheir proper relative positions so that neither of these parts can berela tively displaced. After the work has been fed and the needle hasadvanced through the work the presser foot is lifted out of engagementwith the upper so that there will not be any drag upon the marginalportion of the upper as the feed slide retracts. The

lifting of the presser foot relieves the member 44 from the depressingaction of the presser foot thereon and after the presser foot has beenlifted some distance from the work the member 44 is lifted slightly ashereinbefore described so as to relieve the &

insole from even the light spring pressure occasioned by the action ofthe spring 56. The feed slide then retracts without exert ing anyappreciable friction or drag upon either the upper or insole, whichmight tend to displace relatively the same. In order to lift the member4A when the presser foot is raised out of engagement with the upper aforwardly projecting lug is formed on the hub of the arm 66 and carriesan abutment screw 72, the upper end of which engages an abutment 74.formed upon a forwardly projecting portion of the support 48, as thepresser foot is lifted, and raises the member 44.

To gui le the edge of the upper in correct relation to the insole and tothe stitch forming devices the machine is provided with an upper edgeguide indicated at 76. The construction of this guide is shownparticularly in Figs. 6 10 and 11. The upper edge guide is formed with aguiding face 78 located adjacent the sewing point and at the properdistance to the rear of the paths of the needle and awl and is cut awayat an angle to the line of feed in advance of the sewing point asindicated at 80 forming an inclined face leading 'fOlVillClly toward theface 78. The guide is also provided with an overhanging lip 82 locatedabove the inclined face formed at the cut away portion of the guide. Theupper edge guide is immovable in the direction of feed. and is pivotedcoaxially with the needle so that it will move vertically with themember 44 as said member is raised and depressed. In the illustratedconstruction the upper guide is formed with a laterally projecting pivotstud 84: which is journaled within a sleeve 86 formed integral with theplate 88 upon which sleeve the needle segment and needle guide seg :ientare pivoted, a screw 90 threaded into the stud 84 acting to hold theparts in position in the bracket 92 in the frame of the machine. Inorder to cause the upper edge guide to move vertically with the member al the forward portion of the edge guide rests on said member and saidmember is formed with an overhanging ledge 9st (see Figs. 6 and 7) whichengages above a portion 96 of the upper edge guide. During the sewingoperation, the portion of the upper in advance of the sewing point isheld by the hand of the operator with its edge extending rearwardly atan angle to the guiding face 7 8 of the upper edge guide beneath the lip82'so that the edge of the upper is led forwardly at an angle to theguiding face 7 8 and is constantly crowded against the right handportion of said face. This insures that the edge of the upper will bebrought to the proper position with relation to the stitch formingdevices at the sewing point and prevents the seam from being formed toocloseto or from running off the edge of the upper. The overhanging lip82 on the upper edge guide prevents the upper from being drawn back overthe top of the guide.

To enable the presser foot to be actuated in the manner described thehub of the arm 6 is formed with series of gear teeth 98 which mesh witha series of corresponding teeth 100 formed on the end of the forwardlyprojecting arm of a lever 192 pivoted upon a shaft 104.. The end of therearwardly projecting of the lever 102 is pivotally connected to thelower end of a rod 106 the upper end of which passes through a collar 08pivoted by means of a stud 110 to the forward end of a cam lever 112which carries a cam roll 112 engaging in a cam groove in a cam diskmounted on the main shaft of the machine. t compression spring 114surrounding the rod1 1H5 engages at its respective extremities a stopnut 116 on the rod and the collar 108 and acts normally to main tain thecollar in engagement with a stop nut 118 on the upper end of the rod.The presser foot is lifted from the work by the upward movement of theforward end of the cam lever 112. During the downward movenent of heforward end of the cam lever 112 the presser foot is depressed intoengagement with the work and when it has been brought into engagementwith the work further downward movement of the forward end of the camlever acts to compress the heavy spring 114i, thereby subjecting thepresser foot to a heavy spring pressure. 1 :1: construction of theactuating mechanism for the presser foot allows the presser foot toaccommodate itself to differences in the thickness of the materialbetween the l-h uide and the crease guide and to ciilerences in thethickness of the upper. The mechanism for locking the presser foot afterit has been depressed during each cycle of operations comprises a pairof pawls 120 pivoted side by side upon a stud 122 secured a bracket 12%attached to the frame of the machine, the toothed lower ends of saidpawis being arranged to engage a series of teeth 126 formed on the endof the rearwardly projecting arm of the lever 102. The pawls areactuated to engage tne toothed ends thereof with the teeth 126 by meansof compression springs 128, mounted in the bracket 12a and engaging therear sides of the pawls. To release the pawls so that the presser footmay be lifted during each cycle of operations of the machine the pawlsare each provided witha tail. 130 which projects upwardly in position tobe engaged by a peripheral cam formed on a cam disk attached to the mainshaft of the machine.

To enable the presser foot to be lifted by the op erator with the partsof the machine in any position which they assume during a cycle ofoperations an arm 134 is pivotedon the stud 122 and carries a pin 136which projects laterally in front of both the pawls 120. The end of thearm 1.3-1 projects forwardly into position to be engaged by the rearei'. l of an arm 138 of a lever 138-14O pivoted on stud 142 carried bythe lower end of a bracket ill. The arm 138 of the lever 13814t-O isconnected by a treadle rod 1&6 with a treadle not shown. The arm 140 ofthe lever 138-1 l0 is arranged to engage a pin. 1.48 carried by adownwardly project ing arm on the lever 102 to lift the presser tootwhen the arm 138 is depressed. The relation of the parts are such thatthe arm 140 will not engage the pin until the pawls 120 have beendisengaged from the teeth 126 by the movement of the arm 134 produced bydepressing the arm 138. The rear end of the arm 138 formed so as tomaintain the pawls 120 out of engagement with the teeth 126 on the endof the rearwai'dly projecting arm of lever 102 until the presser foot isengaged with the work upon the upward. movement of the arm 138. The arm138 is normally held in upward position by means of a spring 150, theupward movement of the arm 138 being limited by the engagement of a stop152 with a suitable stop on the frame.

The welt guide by which the welt. is con ducted to the sewing pointcomprises the usual frame 156 and a sheetmetal shield 158 secured to theframe by means of bolt 160. The welt edge guide 1.62 which engages theforward edge of the welt between the shield and frame is secured to theframe by means of a screw 164 and is adjustable to suit welts ofdifferent widths. T 0 enable the welt guide and presser foot to beadjusted. for wardly and rearwardly on the-arm 66 the shank of thepresser foot is secured to the arm 66 by means of a screw 168 passingthrough a slot in the arm 66 and screwed into the shank of the presserfoot, a tongue and groove connection being provided between the shank ofthe presser foot and the arm to prevent the turning of the presser footon the screw ,68.

It is to be noted that the shuttle is located on the side of the workadjacent the welt and upper, and that the lock between the needle andshuttle threads is pulled down into the work from the side thereofopposite the channel of the insole. The stroke of the pull off isregulated so that the lock between the needle and shuttle threads willbe drawn completely through the welt and upper into the betweensubstance by the action of the take-up in setting the stitch. Thechannel guide, being vertically fixed, causes the bottom of the channel.of the insole that is adjacent the point of operation always to assumethe same vertical position relative to the stitch forming devices andpull of? having'a constant throw is em ployed so that the lock betweenthe threads will be positioned substantially the same distance from thebottom of the channel in each stitch formation regardless of thethickness of the work.

Fig. 14 of the drawings illustrates the manner in which the insole isgripped by the channel guide, sole guide, and shoulder or crease guideduring the feeding movement of the feed slide, the parts beingrepresented period in the cycle of operations, the marginal portion ofthe insole is held from displacement in a direction transverse to theplane of the insole by the guides, during the retracting movement of thefeed slide, the channel guide being engaged in the channel and the outerportion or feather of the insole being guided or positioned by the soleguide and the forward face of the shoulder or crease guide.

The welt guide is inclined upwardly at an angle from the sewing point,as shown in Fig. and is also slightly inclined to the plane of theinsole, as shown in Fig. 4:, the welt being presented by the welt guideto the upper and insole as shown particularly in Figs. 1, 12 and 13. Thewelt guide and sink slightly into the stock, par aicularly if the stockis thoroughly tempered. This sinking of the channel guide into the stockhas a tendency to cause the right hand upper corner of the channel guideto catch in the stock as the feed slide retracts. This tendency isobviated, however, in the present machine by the action of the take-up,which as it executes its loop-drawing stroke to set the stitch tends toswing the insole about the forward upper corner of the channel guide andthereby lift the insole from the right hand upper corner of the channel.guide. The lower edge or face of the crease guide which engages theshoulder of the insole and the upper edge of the channel guide whichengages with the bottom of the channel are constructed substantiallyperpendicular to the paths of the needle and awl, thereby causing thebetween substance of the insole which is gripped between them to assumea position substantially perpendicular to the needle and awl during eachstitch formation. By the cooperative action of these guides as thepresser-foot is depressed to clamp the work between them the insole isswung to bring the between substance thereof into the proper positionrelative to the needle and awl for the formation of each stitch. Theconstruction, arrangement and mode of operation of the channel guides,sole guide and crease guide, are such in the illustrated embodiment ofthe invention that these guides in connection with the awl and needletake care of the insole Without the assistance of the operator duringthe entire operation of sewing the inseam of the shoe. the insole beingmanipulated and positioned automatically by the guides to bring thebetween substance at the point of operation into the proper positionwith relation to the stitch forming devices.

In placing the upper and insole in the machine, the forward .end of thewelt having been first passed through the welt guide, the treadle isdepressed to lift the presser foot and the member 44 as shown in Fig.The insole is then positioned to engage the channel guide 36 in thechannel and to locate the marginal portion or feather between the soleguide 40 and the crease or shoulder guide 42. The marginal portion ofthe up.- pcr is then laid over the upper face of the forward portion ofthe member 4A with its edge engaged with the guiding face 78 of theupper edge guide. As hereinbe ore stated the portion of the upper inadvance of the sewing pointis held with its edge beneath the overhanginglip 82 on the upper edge guide and extending rearwardly or away from theoperator at an angle to the line of feed Briefly described, theoperation of the various parts of the machine during each cycle ofoperation is as follows: Starting at a point in a cycle of operations,after the feed slide has retracted, and just before the awl pierces thework, the presser foot'at that time being locked-in depressed positionand gripping the upper between its lower face uLLx,

with the needle. The awl then retracts and.

the needle follows the awl through the work. a flvencing into positionto receive th thread from the looper. During the piercing of the Work bythe awl, the forward movement of the feed slide to feed the work, theretracting movement of the awl and the advance of the needle, themarginal portions of the upper and insole are held securely in positionby the devices which grip the same so that they are prevented fromrelative displacement and are presented in the )roper )osition to thestitch formin de A 23 vices. After the needle has advanced through thework the presser foot is unlocked and lifted to release the marginalportion of the upper from the grip between the lower portion of thepresser foot and the opposed portion of the member 44, after which themember A is lifted slightly so as to relieve the insole from thepressure of the sole guide and crease guide but not sufficiently torelease the feather of the insole from between these guides. While theinsole, upper and welt are held in position b the needle, the feed slidemoves back to starting position, the upper running freely between thepresser foot and the member L4 and the portion of the insole between thechannel guide, sole guide and crease guide passing'through between theguides without any objectionable drag of these guides upon the same.When the feed slide has reached the limit of its retracting movement,the presser foot is again depressed to grip the marginal portion of theupper and cause the marginal portion of the insole to be gripped. by thechannel guide, crease guide and sole guide, and is locked in de pressedposition during the remainder of the cycle. The needle having received aloop of thread in its barb from the looper retracts from the workdrawing the loop through the work which is then passed about the shuttleand drawn down into the work by the action of the take up to completethe stitch.

In each stitch formation at the time that the take-up executes itsloop-drawing stroke the member 44 which lies between the margins of theinsole and upper has moved back to retracted position allowing the upperto be drawn down close to the shoulder of the insole by the action ofthe take-up.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention and havingspecifically described a machine embodying the various features thereofin their preferred forms,

what is claimed is:

l. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination,

through the between substance and to relieve T V the sole from thepressure of the guides during each cycle of operations, and a supportfor the sole arranged to extend within the shoe to engage the inner faceof the sole.

2. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlastedshoes, having,incombination,

stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a channel guide, a soleguide arranged to engage the sole inside the margin of the upper, meansfor advancing said guides in the direction of feed and for retractingthe guides, means for relatively moving the guides toward and from eachother to cause them to grip the marginal portion of the sole and holdthe same in proper position for the passage of the needle through thebetween substance and to relieve the sole from the pressure of theguides during each cycle of operations, and a support for the solearranged to extend within the shoe and engage the inner face of thesole.

3. A sewing machine for sewing inseams 01E unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a channel guide,a shoulder guide for engaging a shoulder on the marginal portion of asole within its edge having an unvarying operative position withrelation to the path of the needle and cooperating with the channelguide to grip and hold the between sub stance of the sole in properposition for the passage of the needle therethrough, and support for thesole arranged to extend within the shoe andengage the inner face of thesole.

4:. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming devicesincluding a needle,

' channel and shoulder guides, means for relatively moving said guidestoward and from each other to cause them to grip the between substanceof the sole to position and hold the same in proper position for thepassage of the needle and to relieve the between substance from thepressure of the guides during each cycle of operations, and a supportfor the sole arranged to extend within the shoe and engage the innerface of the sole.

5. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming devices including needle, channel andshoulder guides, means for advancing said guides in the direction offeed and for retracting the guides, and means for relatively moving theguides toward and from each other to cause them to grip the betweensubstance of the sole to position and hold the same in proper positionfor the passage of the needle, and to relieve the sole from the pressureof the guides during each cycle of operations.

6. A sewing machine for sewing inseams 0t unlasted shoes. having, incombination, stitch formingmechanism inending a needle, a channel guide,sole guidearranged to engage the sole inside the margin of the upper, asupport for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe and engage thein nor face of the sole, means for advancing said guides and saidsupport in the direction of feed and for retracting the guides and thesupport, and'means for relatively moving the guides toward and from eachother to cause them to grip the sole to position and hold the same inproper location for the passage of the needle through the be- 1 tweensubstance and to relieve the sole from the pressure of the guides duringeach cycle of operations. 7

7. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a neea channel guide, asole guide arranged to the sole inside the margin of the upper andcooperating with the channel guide to position and hold the sole inproperposition for the passage of the needle through the betweensubstance, a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe andengage the inner face of the sole and means for advancing the guides andthe support in the direction of feed and for retracting the guides andthe support during each cycle of operations.

8. A sewing machine for sewing inseams oi unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming devices, including a needle, channel andshoulder guides, a support for the sole arranged to extend within theshoe and engage the inner face of the sole, means tor advancing theguides and the support in the direction of feed and for retracting theguides and the support, and means for relatively moving the channelguide and shoulder guide toward and from each other to cause them togrip the between substance of the sole to position and hold the same inproper position for the passage of the needle and for relieving the solefrom the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations. i

9. A sewing machine for sewing iii-seams of unlasted shoes, having. incombination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a channel guide,sole guide arranged to engage the sole in de the margin of the upper,means for relatively moving said guides toward and each other to gripthe sole and hold the same in proper position for the of the needlethrough the between substance and to relieve the sole from the pressureof the guides during each cycle of operations, and means for grippingthe margin of the upper and holding the same in proper position relativeto the between substance of thesole for the passage "Oi the needletherethrougn.

'10. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having,combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, channel guide, asole guide arranged to engage the sole inside the margin of the upper,means for relatively moving said guides toward and from each other togrip the sole and hold the same in proper posh tion for the passage ofthe needle through the between substance and to relieve the sole "fromthe pressure or the guides during each cycle of operations, and uppergripping means for gripping and holding the marginal portion ot' theupper in proper position relative to the lxstween. substance of the solearranged to engage the inner and outer faces of the margin of the upper.

11. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlast'ed shoes, having, incombination. stitch forming mechanism including a needle, guides forpositioning and holding the marginal portion oi the sole in properposition for the passage of the needle through the between subs ance, anupper engaging device extending within the mar gin of the upper, and apresser toot for engaging the outer face of the upper to grip the upperagainst said device.

12. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism, guides for posh tioning andholding the marginal portion of the sole in proper position for thepassage of the needle through the between substance. upper grippingmeans for holding the upper in proper position relative to the betweensubstance oi. the sole arranged to engage the inner and outer tacos ofthe margin of the upper, means tor'moving the guidesand the uppergripping means in the direction of feed, and for retracting the guidesand said means, mechanism for actuating the upper gripping means to gripand release the upper.

13. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination. stitch forming mechanism including needle, a channel guide,a member arranged to extend between the margin of the upper and thesole, a sole guide carried by said member cooperating with the channelguide to grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold the same inproper position tor the passage of the needle through the betweensubstance and a support for engaging the inner face of the solecarriedby said member.

14. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination. stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a channelguide, a member arranged to extend between the margin of the upper andthe sole, a sole guide carried by said member cooperating with thechannel guide to grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold the samein proper position for the passage of the needle through the betweensubstance, a support for en agingthe nner face of the sole carried bysaid member, and

a presser foot for engaging the outer face of the upper to grip theupper against said member.

15. A sewing machine vtor-sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a channelguise, a member arranged to extend between the margin of the upper andthe sole, a sole guide carried by said member coiiperating with thechannel guide to, grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold thesame in proper position for the passage of the needle through thebetween substance, support for engaging the inner face of the solecarried by said member, a presser foot for engaging the outer face ofthe upper to grip the upper against said member, and a welt guidecarried by the presser foot.

16. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having. incombination, stitch forming mechanism, guides for positioning andholding the marginal portion of the sole in proper position for thepassage of the needle through the between substance,

moving said guides toward and from each other to cause them to grip themarginal portion of the sole. and hold the same in proper position forthepassage of the needle through the between substance and to relievethe sole from the pressure of the guides during each cycle ofoperations,

means for gripping the margin of the upper and, holding the same inproper position relative to the between substance of the sole. and aguide for the welt.

18. A'sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming devices including a needle. guides forpositioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in properposition for the passage of the needle through the between substance,means for gripping the marginal portion of the upper and holding thesame in proper position relative to the between substance'ot the soleand a guide for the edge or" the upper 19, A sewing machine for sewinginseams of unlasted shoes, having. in combination, stitch formingneedle, a channel guide, a sole guide arranged to engage the sole insidethe margin of the upper, means for relatively moving the guides to gripthe marginal portion of mechanism including a for the passage of theneedle through the between substance and to relieve the sole from thepressure of the guides during each cycle of operations, means forgripping the marginal portion of the upper in proper position relativeto the between substance of the sole, and a guide for the edge off theupper.

20. A sewing machine for sewing inseams or" unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming devices including a needle, guides forpositioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in oroperposition for the passage of the needle through the between substance,means for 3 pping the upper to hold the same in proper position relativeto the between substance arranged to engage the inner and miter faces otthe upper and a guide for the ot the upper. i

21. A sewing machin tor sewing inseams ot unlasted shoes, having. incombination stitch forming devices including a needle, guides forpositioning and holding the marginal portion of the solo in properposition for the passage of the needle through the between substance,means for gripping the upper and holding the same in proper positonrelative to the between substance oi the sole, means for moving saidguides upper gripping meansin the direction of teed in each cycle ofoperations and aguide the edge of the upper. fired in the dire tion or"feed.

22. sewing machine for sewing inf-seams or unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming devices including a eedle, a channel guide,a sole guide arranged to engage the sole inside the margin of the up;ver, a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe andengage the inner :tace of the sole, means for gripping the marginalportion of the upper arranged to engage the inner and outer faces of theupper, means for moving the sole guides and support and the uppergripping means in the direction of feed and for retracting the sameduring each cycle of operations, and means for relatively actuating thesole guides, and the upper gripping means to causethem to grip the soleand the margin of the upper and hold the same in proper position for thepassage of the needle through the margin of the upper and the betweensubstance of the sole as the guides and upper gripping means advance inthe direction of feed and for releasing the sole and upper as theyretract to starting position.

' 23. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming devices including a needle, the operatingmechanism theretpr, a wor'k support adapted to, enter theuniastedshoeand support'successiveportions of the sole margin, a guide for engagingthe inside of the channel lip, an upper engaging device, and means formovingthe upper engaging device in the direction of feed during the feedof the work.

24. A sewing machine for sewinginseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming devices including a curved needle, andoperating mechanism therefor a channel. guide and a sole supportingguide arranged to engage progressively the sole within the unlasted shoeand permit the shoe to be moved with relation to the supporting guideand an upper engaging device movable toward and from the channel guide.

25. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming devices including a curved needle andoperating mechanism therefor, a channel guide and a solesupporting'guide arranged to pro ressively engage the sole within theunlasted shoe, an upper engaging, device and a gage for the edge of theupper.

26. A sewing machine for'sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism, work guiding and positioningdevices for guiding and positioning the parts of the shoe in properrelation to the stitch forming mechanism at thepoint of operationcomprising a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe andengage the inner face of the sole and means for moving said support inthe direction of feed and for retracting said support in each cycle ofoperations.

27 A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, sole guidingand gripping devices for positioning andv holding the marginal portionof the solo in proper position for the passage of the needle through thebetween substance, means for moving said devices in the directionof'feed with the shoe in each cycle of operations and for retractingsaid devices and means for relatively actuating saiddevices to causethem to grip the sole as they advance in the direction of feed and torelieve the sole from the pressure of said devices as they retract totheir initial positions. Y

28. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle,'sole and upperguiding and gripping devices for positioning and holding the marginalportions of the sole and upper in proper position for the passage or"the needle through the marginof the upper and the between substance ofthe sole, means for moving said devices in the direction of feed in eachcycle of operations and for retracting said devices, and means forrelatively actuating said devices to cause them to grip the upper andsole and hold the same in position as they advance in the direction offeed and to release the upper and sole as they are retracted to startingpositions.

29. A sewing machine for sewing inseanis of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism, devices for positioning andguiding the parts of the shoe comprising an upper edge guide formed witha guiding face in advance of the sewing point inclined tothe directionof feed.

30. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism, devices for positioning andguiding the parts or a shoe comprising an upper edge guide having a cutaway portion and an overhanging lip in advance of the sewing point.

31. A sewing machine for sewing inseams ott' unlasted shoes, having. incombination, stitch forming mechanism, devices for gripping the marginalportions oi? the'u'pper'and sole and holding them in proper positionduring their presentation to the stitch forming mechanism for thepassage of the needle t1 rough the margin of the upper and betweensubstance of the sole com )risin a support for the sole arranged toextend within the shoe and engage the inner face of the sole, and a weltguide arranged to present the welt to the upper and'sole in properposition for the passage of the needle through the inner margin of thewelt.

82. A. sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch .iorming mechanism, guides for positioning andholding the marginal portion of the sole in proper position for thepar?- sage of the needle through the between sub stance comprising asole support arranged to engage progressively the sole withintheunlasted shoe and permit the shoe to be moved with relation to thesupport, and means for gripping the marginal portion of the upper andholding the same in proper position relative to the betweensubstance ofthe sole, comprising a presserfoot'shaped to engage the crease in themolded upper and, form a guide for theupper.

A sewingmachine for sewing inseams or unlasted shoes,having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a channelguide, a member arranged to extend within the margin of the upper andembrace the marginal portion of the sole so as to form a support for theinner and outer faces of the margin of the sole, and means forrelatively moving said member and the channel guide toward and from eachother, to grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold it in properiosition for the passage of the needle through the between substance andto relieve the sole of pressure duringeach cycle of operations,

34. A sewing machine for sewing inseams 1 same dle, a sole supportarranged'to extend with in the shoe and engage the inner face of thesole, guides cooperatin with said support to hold the marginal portionof the sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through thebetween substance, and upper gripping means arranger. to engage theinner and outer races of themargin of the upper for holding the upper inproper position relative to the insole.

A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted. shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, guides forpositioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in properposition for the passage of the needle through it ie between substancecomprising a sole support arranged to engage progressively the solewithin the unlasted shoe and permit the shoe to be movedwith relation tothe sup port, upper gripping means for holding the marginal portion ofthe upper in proper position relative to the sole, and means for movingthe upper gripping means in the direction of feed during each cycle ofoperations.

36. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, guidesarranged to engage both the inside and the outside of the margin of thesole for positioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole inproper position tor the passage of the needle through the eon substanceand means for moving and guides in the direction of feed during eachcycle or operations.

3?. sewing machine for sewing mseams sole for positioning and holdingthe mar- V ginal portion of the sole in proper position for the passageof the needle through the 7 between substance, means for moving theguides in the direction of feed and torretracting the guides, and meansfor operating the guides to cause them to grip the marginal portion oithe'sole and to relieve the sole from the pressure of the guides duringeach cycle of operations.

38. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a channelguide, a member arranged to extend between the margin otthenpper and thesole, a shoulder guide carried by said member coiiperating with thechannel guide to grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold the samein proper position for the passage of the needle through the betweensubstance, and a support for engaging the inner face of the sole carriedby said member.

39. A sewing machine for sewinginseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch i'orming mechanism including a needle, sole guidingand gripping devices including a sole support arranged to extend withinthe unlasted shoe for positioning and holding the marginal portion ofthe sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through thebetween substance, means for moving said devices in the direction offeed in each cycle of operations, and for retracting said devices, andmeans for relatively actuating said devices to cause them to grip thesole as they advance in the direction of feed, and to relieve the solefrom the pressure of said devices as they retract to their initialposition.

40. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, a sole support arranged to extend within a shoe to supportsuccessive portions of the sole margin, a channel guide, a devicearranged in opposed relation to the channel guide and. cooperatingtherewith to grip the work, and means for advancing the channel guideand said device in the direction of feed and for retracting the sameduring each cycle of operations.

41. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a sole supportarranged to extend within a shoe to support successive portions of thesole margin, a device arranged to engage the outside of the shoe andcooperating with the sole support to hold the parts of the shoe inposition, and means for advancing the sole support and said device inthe direction of feed and for retracting the same during each, cycle ofoperations.

42. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, a sole support arranged to extend within a shoe to supportsuccessive portions of the sole margin, a channel guide, and means foradvancing the sole support and channel guide in the direction of feedand for retracting the same during each cycle of operations.

43. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, a sole support arranged to extend within a shoe to supportsuccessive portions of the sole margin, a channel guide, a devicearranged to engage the outside of the shoe and cooperating with the solesupport and channel guide to hold the parts of the shoe in position, andmeans for advancing the sole support, channel guide and said device inthe direction of feed, and for retracting the same during each cycle ofoperations.

44. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, a sole support arranged to extend within a shoe to supportsuccessive portions of the sole margin, a channel guide, an upperengaging device cooperating with the sole support and channel guide tohold the parts of the shoe in position, and means for advancing the solesupport, channel guide and upper engaging device in the direction offeed, and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations.

45. A wax thread sewing machine, having, in combination, a work support,a presser foot, a work penetrating tool, and means for moving the worksupport, presser foot and tool in the direction of feed and forretracting the same during each cycle of operations.

46. A wax thread sewing machine, having, in combination, a work support,a

resser foot, awork penetrating tool, means tor relatively moving thework support and presser foot toward and from each other during eachcycle of operations, and means for moving the work support, presser tootand tool in the direction of feed and for retractirig the same duringeach cycle.

47. wax thread sewing machine, having, in combination, a work support, apresser foot, a workpenetrating tool, and means for moving the worksupport and presser foot in the direction of feed and for retracting thesame while the tool is in the work.

48. A wax thread sewing machine, having, in combination, a work support,a presser foot, a work penetrating tool, means for relatively moving thework support and presser foot toward and from each other during eachcycle of operations, and means for moving the work support and presserfoot in the direction of feed and for retracting the same while the toolis in the work.

49. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, two work piercingtools, a work support, a presser foot, and means for moving the worksupport and presser foot and one of said tools in the direction of feed,and for retracting the same while the other tool is in the work duringeach cycle of operations.

50. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, sole and upperguiding and gripping devices including a sole support arranged to extendwithin the unlasted shoe, for positioning and holding the marginalportions of the sole and upper in proper position for the passage of theneedle through the between substance and margin of the upper, means foradvancing said devices in the direction of feed and for retracting thesame during each cycle of operations, and means for relatively actuatingsaid devices to cause them to grip the sole and upper as they advance inthe direction of feed and to relieve the sole and upper from thepressure of said devices as they retract to their initial positions.

51. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, devices "forpositioning and holding the parts of the shoe in proper position for thepassage of the needle including a sole support arranged to extend withinthe un lasted shoe, means for advancing said devices in the direction offeed and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations, andmeans for relatively actuating said devices to cause them to grip theparts of the shoe as they advance in the direction of feed and torelieve the parts of the shoe from the pressure of said devices as theyretract to their initial positions.

52. A sewing machine for sewinginseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, a work piercing tool, means for actuating'said tool to feedthe work, devices for positioning and holding the parts of a shoe inproper position for the passage of the tool therethrough including asole support arranged to extend within the unlasted shoe, means formoving said devices in the directionoi? :feed with the tool and forretracting the same during each cycle of operations, and

means for relatively actuating said" devices to cause them to grip andhold the parts of a shoe during the passage of the tool therethrough andduring the advancing movement of said devices in the direction or" feedand to relieve the parts of the shoe from the pressure of said devicesas they retract to their initial positions. a

53. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, devices forpositioning and holding the parts oi the shoe in proper position for thepassage of the needle therethrough including a sole support arranged toextend within the unlasted shoe, means for advancing said devices in thedirection of feed while the needle is out oi the work and for retractingthe same while the needle is in the work, and means for relativelyactuat ing said devices to cause them to grip and hold the parts of theshoe during their advancing movement in the direction of feed and duringthe work piercing movement of the needle and to relieve the parts of theshoe from the pressure of said devices as they retract to their initialpositions.

5%. 5i sewingmachine for sewing inseams.

of unlasted shoes, having in combination, stitch forming mechanismincluding a needle, a work feeding awl, devices for positioning andholding the parts of the shoe in proper position for the passage of theneedle and awl therethrough including a sole support arranged to extendwithin the unlasted shoe, means for advancing said devices in thedirection of feed and for retracting the same with the awl during eachcycle of operations, and means for relatively actuating said devices togrip and hold the parts of the shoe during the work piercing movement ofthe awl, the advancing movement of said devices in the direction offeed, and the work piercing movement of the needle, and to relieve theparts of the shoe from the pressure of said devices as they retract totheir initial positions.

F REDERIU E. BERTRAND.

Vtitnesses (1. M. SINOERBEAUX, CHARLES E. GRUsH.

